Last Updated on 18.7.2026 by Vojta
Semporna is a genuinely odd little place. It’s home to the so-called sea gypsies, it isn’t much to look at, and parts of it feel decidedly poor. And yet this scruffy port is the gateway to a string of impossibly lovely islands that scatter all the way up towards the Philippine border — some of the finest snorkelling in Asia and lagoon-fringed islets that look lifted straight from a postcard. We reached it the hard way, driving almost the length of Borneo (an ordeal we wouldn’t wish on anyone), but it was worth every hour. So why does everybody come here, and what should you watch out for?
Semporna, Borneo — in a nutshell
- What it is: a small town in Sabah (Malaysian Borneo) — the launch point for diving and snorkelling around Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai and Mataking.
- When to go: March to October is best (calmer seas), with the finest visibility roughly July to September. Sipadan is closed for the whole of November 2026.
- Getting there: fly into Tawau (about 50 min from Kota Kinabalu), then roughly 75 min by car to Semporna; from there it’s a 40–60 min boat ride to the islands.
- Sipadan: only around 176 diving permits a day, available solely through a licensed operator as part of a package. A day at Sipadan works out at roughly 1,200–1,500 MYR (about £215–270).
- Not a diver? No problem — snorkelling island-hopping (Mabul, Kapalai, Sibuan, Bohey Dulang) starts from about 300 MYR (£54).
- Book ahead: for Sipadan, count on 2–3 months in advance; most packages have a minimum of 3 nights.
Why bother going to Semporna at all
Let’s be honest from the outset: nobody comes to Semporna for Semporna. The town itself is scruffy, crowded and walkable end to end in half an hour — it’s a logistics hub where you collect your package, stock up on water and step onto a boat. The magic only begins out on the water. A few dozen kilometres off the coast lies an archipelago that ranks among the very best diving on the planet: Sipadan, with walls that plunge into the deep; Mabul and Kapalai, famous for “muck diving” (hunting for tiny, bizarre critters); and quieter, more upmarket Mataking.
Who is it for? For certified divers, Semporna is one of those destinations you simply want in your logbook. But don’t worry — even if you don’t dive, you’ll get your share: the snorkelling here is some of the loveliest in Asia, and a day trip out to a few islands with turquoise lagoons and white sand is within absolutely everyone’s reach.
When to visit Semporna
You can dive and snorkel around Semporna all year round — the water sits at a steady, pleasant 27–30 °C and the marine life never leaves. The real difference is the weather above the surface and the visibility below it. The most agreeable stretch tends to be March to October, when the sea is calmer and the boat crossings gentler. Divers report the best visibility (easily 20–40 m) roughly between July and September, though some swear by spring (March to May). November through February brings more rain and rougher seas, but people still dive here happily even then.
💡 Tip — important for 2026: Sipadan will be completely closed for the whole of November 2026 (no diving, snorkelling or landing), reopening on 1 December. If you’re coming mainly for Sipadan, steer clear of November and confirm the dates with your operator.
How to get to Semporna
The nearest airport is Tawau (TWU), not Semporna. The most common route runs via Kota Kinabalu (Sabah’s capital): from there it’s a flight of about 50 minutes to Tawau, served by both AirAsia and Malaysia Airlines, and fares are cheap if you book early. From Tawau it’s roughly 75 minutes by car to Semporna (taxi or transfer). Most dive operators will, for a small surcharge, arrange a pick-up straight from Tawau airport and drive you to Semporna — comfortably the easiest option.
If you’ve got time and want to save a few pounds, you can take a night or early-morning bus from Kota Kinabalu (departures tend to be around 7:30 am and in the evening) — but it’s a 9–10 hour haul, so really one for the hardy. Compare flights and dates through Kayak →.
From the mainland, boats to the islands leave from Semporna’s harbour (Seafest Jetty). It’s 40–60 minutes across to Mabul, with transfers usually setting off in the morning (often around 10:00 and 12:30). If you land late in the afternoon, expect to spend your first night in Semporna and reach the island the following day.
💡 Tip: Aim to land in Tawau in the morning. That way you’ll catch the midday boat and save yourself a wasted extra night in Semporna. Conversely, on the day before your return flight, head back to the mainland — rough seas can delay the morning boat, and you really don’t want to miss your plane.
Sipadan: permits, visitor caps and the rules
Sipadan is Malaysia’s only oceanic island — it rises from the seabed like a volcanic chimney, its walls dropping hundreds of metres into the blue. That’s precisely why the life here is so extraordinary: shoals of barracuda and jacks, green and hawksbill turtles by the dozen, reef sharks and the famous Turtle Tomb cavern. To keep it that way, Sabah Parks has imposed strict protection and a daily permit cap.
The key things you need to know:
- You can only get a permit through a licensed operator. It can’t be bought separately or on the spot — it comes as part of a diving (or snorkelling) package, with the operator handling your application.
- The daily number of permits is strictly limited. For years only around 176 permits a day were issued; from 2026 some operators report an increased quota (loosely around 250 a day). Always confirm the exact figure and your date with the operator — permits are shared out between the providers and booked well ahead.
- The cost. The marine-park entry fee alone is officially around 140 MYR (about £25) per person per day, plus tax. In practice, though, a “day at Sipadan” (permit + three dives + boat + lunch) comes to roughly 1,200–1,500 MYR (about £215–270) with an operator — part of that being the surcharge for the permit itself.
- Number of dives. From May 2026 Sabah Parks again allows up to 3 dives a day at Sipadan. Treat that as the standard and check it with your specific operator.
- Certification. The walls fall away into deep water and there are often currents, so operators usually want at least an Advanced Open Water qualification and a few logged dives. Beginners dive around Mabul instead.
💡 Tip: If you want a guaranteed Sipadan day, choose a package of 3 nights or more — most operators only guarantee at least one “Sipadan day” on longer stays, and the more nights you book, the better your odds of extra days. In high season (April–August), book 2–3 months ahead.
6 islands around Semporna worth visiting
The archipelago off Semporna is far more than just Sipadan. Each island has a slightly different character — here’s a rundown to help you build a plan around whether you dive, snorkel, or mostly just want to flop on a beach.
1. Sipadan — the world-class classic beyond the wall
The crown jewel of the whole area and the reason most people come. Vertical walls, shoals of fish, turtles on every corner and the thrill of the deep. You can’t stay overnight on Sipadan — all the resorts are on the neighbouring islands, and you only visit Sipadan on permitted day dives (see the section above). Essential for certified divers, a lifetime memory for confident snorkellers.
2. Mabul — muck diving and base camp for most
The busiest island in the area and the main accommodation base for Sipadan trips. The shallower waters around Mabul are a paradise for “muck diving” — the hunt for tiny, bizarre creatures: octopus, seahorses, frogfish, shrimp. Macro photographers make the pilgrimage specially. There’s a local stilt village, a string of resorts and backpacker lodges, and the place hums in the evenings too.
3. Kapalai — a stilt resort above the lagoon
Kapalai isn’t really an island at all — it’s a sandbank on which a water resort of stilted bungalows stands right above the turquoise lagoon. Ideal for gentle macro diving and snorkelling straight off your own terrace, and for the romance of clear water as far as the eye can see. Transfers to Sipadan are quick from here.
4. Mataking — calm, beach and privacy
A little further from the bustle lies Mataking — a private island with a white beach, a coral garden right off the shore and a single upper-tier resort. The emphasis here is on peace, pleasant house diving suited even to the less experienced, and a famous “underwater post office”. A choice for those who want to blend diving with proper holiday ease rather than just hauling tanks.
5. Bohey Dulang and the snorkelling islands — for non-divers
No dive certification? This cluster is for you. Bohey Dulang is a flooded volcanic crater, and a short but steep climb leads up its ridge to one of Sabah’s most photogenic viewpoints over the lagoons below. The surrounding Sibuan, Mantabuan and Sabangkat tempt you with shallow coral gardens and picture-postcard beaches — perfect for a snorkelling island-hop from Semporna (see below).
6. Pom Pom and Timba-Timba: turtles and beach calm
A short hop from the main trio lies Pom Pom, an island ringed with white sand, home to upper-tier resorts and a sea-turtle hatchery where, in season, conservationists help newly hatched turtles down to the water. Nearby Timba-Timba is a tiny sand spit with a coral garden right off the shore, a favourite stop on both diving and snorkelling trips. Both make a quieter alternative to busy Mabul, with a lovely house reef and fewer people.
💡 Tip: Most of these islands fall within the protected area, so budget for per-island entry fees (Mabul, for example, is around 50 MYR / £9) and a compulsory guide for the Bohey Dulang climb. It’s usually included in an organised trip, but do check.
Tun Sakaran Marine Park and the Bajau Laut sea nomads
Most of the islands for non-divers sit within Tun Sakaran Marine Park (also known as the Semporna Islands Park), gazetted in 2004. It protects roughly 350 km² of sea and eight islands around Darvel Bay, and it’s only about 15 minutes by fast boat from Semporna’s harbour. This is where the classic snorkelling island-hop heads.
The standout experience is the climb up Bohey Dulang, a flooded volcanic crater whose summit rises to 353 metres. A short but steep, stony path (roughly 30 to 45 minutes up) leads to the ridge viewpoint, rewarded with a view over the turquoise lagoons of the surrounding islands below. On the slope you’ll also come across a giant clam hatchery, part of the park’s conservation programme.
The park’s lagoons are still home to the Bajau Laut, the sea nomads nicknamed “sea gypsies”. Generations spend most of their lives on wooden boats called lepa, or in stilt huts right above the reefs, and their bond with the sea is extraordinarily close. Many of them, however, are stateless and live in real poverty, so approach them with sensitivity.
💡 Tip: Encounters with Bajau Laut children beside the boats can be moving, but don’t hand out money or sweets — it only fuels begging. If you want to help, buy something from local people or donate to a reputable organisation. Ask before photographing anyone up close, and respect it when they’d rather you didn’t.
Snorkelling or diving? How to choose
The crucial fork in the road that will shape both your budget and your itinerary:
- You’re a certified diver (ideally Advanced): you’re headed for Sipadan plus house dives around Mabul, Kapalai or Mataking. Take a package of several nights so you’re sure to land a Sipadan day.
- You don’t dive but want to get beneath the surface: go for a snorkelling island-hop — one day, three islands, lunch on the beach. The water here is so clear you’ll spot turtles and shoals of fish even from the surface.
- You want to try it for the first time: operators offer a “try dive” / Discover Scuba around Mabul without certification — but it won’t get you onto Sipadan.
Organised snorkelling and try-dive trips can be booked conveniently online through GetYourGuide →.
Where to stay in and around Semporna
You essentially have three options — and they differ in both price and atmosphere:
On Mabul (best for divers)
Staying right on the island means shorter journeys to the dive sites and quiet evenings by the sea. The range runs from backpacker lodges to water resorts. On a budget, there’s Mabul Backpackers → (a dorm bed from roughly £20/night without diving) or the popular Uncle Chang’s Dive Lodge →. Mostly, though, what people buy is an “accommodation + diving + meals” package rather than just a bed. You can compare the full range on Mabul here →.
On Kapalai or Mataking (comfort and calm)
A stilted water resort above the lagoon (Kapalai) or a private beach resort (Mataking) is the pricier option, but you get comfort, full board and diving “from your doorstep”. Wonderful if you want to pair diving with a proper holiday.
In Semporna on the mainland (cheapest)
The thriftiest choice is to sleep in town and take day trips out to the islands. You’ll save money, but factor in the daily boat commute. It suits snorkellers best, and the night before or after a flight. You’ll find the town’s hotels in Semporna →.
💡 Tip: On the islands, electricity and wi-fi can be patchy and there’s no cash machine. Withdraw ringgit back in Tawau or Semporna and take it with you — plenty of things on the islands are cash only.
How much it costs (budget)
Semporna can be cheap or dear — it all depends on whether you’re diving Sipadan or enjoying the mainland and a snorkel. Indicative prices (at roughly 1 MYR ≈ £0.18; do check the current rate):
| Item | Indicative price |
|---|---|
| A day’s diving at Sipadan (permit + 3 dives + boat + lunch) | 1,200–1,500 MYR (~£215–270) |
| A day’s diving around Mabul (excluding Sipadan) | 350–450 MYR (~£63–81) |
| Snorkelling island-hop (full day, several islands) | from ~300 MYR (from ~£54) |
| Per-island entry fee (e.g. Mabul) | ~50 MYR (~£9) |
| Semporna jetty fee | ~10 MYR (~£2) |
| A meal at a local restaurant (main course) | 10–20 MYR (~£2–3.50) |
| Dorm bed on Mabul (without diving) | from ~£20/night |
It makes sense to think in terms of a package: most operators sell multi-day “all-inclusive” stays (accommodation, meals, dives and one or more Sipadan days). For non-divers, on the other hand, Semporna is one of the cheaper tropical destinations — with a few pounds a day for food and a single island-hop, you’ll do very nicely.
Is Semporna safe?
It’s the question everyone asks — eastern Sabah has a reputation from the past for kidnappings from boats. But you need to see the situation as it stands today: according to the Malaysian authorities, there hasn’t been a single ransom kidnapping in the area (the ESSZONE) since 2020. The region is patrolled by the Eastern Sabah Security Command (ESSCOM), islands such as Sipadan, Mabul and Kapalai have permanent police and military posts, and the waters are regularly patrolled.
In practice, what this mainly means for you is one thing: there’s a night-time maritime curfew — from dusk to dawn you can’t travel by sea without a permit. So night diving ends promptly (you usually have to be out of the water by around 7:30 pm at the latest) and there’s no snorkelling after dark. You can still move around the island. The standard advice: go with a licensed operator, follow the instructions, and check your foreign office’s current travel advice before you set off.
What to see in Semporna itself (beyond the islands)
Not spending your whole stay underwater, waiting for a boat, or simply want to see a slice of “dry” Semporna too? The town and its surroundings are no picture postcard, but a handful of spots will pleasantly surprise you — especially if you’re curious about the life of the local Bajau and the early-morning hustle of the harbour.
1. The Semporna Seafront and its seafood
The new waterfront promenade is now the town’s liveliest corner. In the evening this is where people come for fresh seafood: pick a fish, crab or prawns straight from the tank and have them cooked to order. It’s also where most of the boats leave from, so you’ll be spending plenty of time here anyway.
2. The morning fish market by the harbour
Want to experience the real Semporna? Come early in the morning to the fish market by the jetty, where fishermen unload huge tuna and the stalls overflow with everything from fish to electronics. It’s noisy, raw and authentic — one of the most fascinating “snapshots” in all of Sabah.
3. The Bajau Laut stilt village
Right by the town and out in the surrounding lagoons stand stilt water villages (such as Kampung Bangau or Bubul), home to the sea-dwelling Bajau. It’s a glimpse of a way of life you’ll never see in Europe. Approach people with respect, offer to photograph them beforehand, and don’t hand out money or sweets to the children.
4. The waterfront mosque
The main town mosque stands right by the water beside the market, and with its dome it’s Semporna’s most striking building — especially when the morning sun catches it. It photographs beautifully from the promenade and from a boat as you set out.
5. Bukit Tengkorak — Southeast Asia’s oldest “pottery workshop”
Roughly 10 km south of Semporna lies Bukit Tengkorak (Skull Hill), a volcanic rock overhang and an important archaeological site: pottery shards over 3,000 years old have been found here, and it’s said to have been the largest prehistoric pottery-making site in the region. There’s a small museum at the foot of the hill, and a fine view over the coast opens up from the top.
6. Sunset from the hill above town
The best sunsets in Semporna aren’t watched down by the sea but up high: the 2win Hill Park viewpoint (roughly 10 km from the centre) offers a panorama of the town, the harbour and the islands in the distance. A great full stop to a day spent on the water.
7. Bans Hill — a view over town, harbour and sea
Another viewpoint hill a short way from Semporna, well worth the climb. You go up on foot, and the reward is a panorama of the town, the harbour and the sea with its islands in the distance — loveliest at sunrise or sunset. Treat the distance and climbing time as approximate; ideally arrange a lift by car and head up in good visibility.
8. The Regatta Lepa festival (April only)
If you happen to hit Semporna in April, don’t miss the Regatta Lepa, the colourful Bajau festival with decorated “lepa” boats, igal-igal dances, a boat beauty contest and an evening fireworks display. It has been held since 1994 and ranks among the most vivid events in all of Sabah — the town truly comes alive.
9. Further afield on the mainland: Tawau and the Madai Caves
Got a spare day on the mainland? On the way to or from Tawau airport you can stop off at Tawau Hills Park (rainforest, waterfalls, hot springs) or the Madai Caves near Kunak, where locals harvest birds’ nests. Treat the distances as approximate and count on a car or transfer.
💡 Tip: You can fit most of these spots in on your arrival or departure day, when you’re waiting for a boat or a plane anyway. For Bukit Tengkorak, 2win Hill and the Madai Caves, your own car or an arranged driver comes in handy — there’s virtually no public transport here.
Where to go next
- Borneo holidays: the complete overview
- The island of Borneo: what to know before you go
- Kota Kinabalu: the gateway to Sabah
- Getting to Borneo: how to travel there
Frequently asked questions about Semporna and Borneo
Experiences and tickets in Semporna and around Sipadan
traveller-verified · GetYourGuide
Semporna: Mabul & Kapalai – Snorkelling or Diving
from £39
Prices and ratings are indicative (source: GetYourGuide); you’ll see the live figures after clicking.
Where is Semporna and why is it so well known?
Semporna is a small port town on the south-eastern coast of Malaysian Sabah (Borneo). It’s famous as the launch point for diving and snorkelling around the islands of Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai and Mataking — some of the finest diving areas in the world.
How do I get to Semporna?
Fly into Tawau (about 50 minutes from Kota Kinabalu, with flights from Kuala Lumpur too), then roughly 75 minutes by car or transfer to Semporna. From the mainland you then take a boat out to the islands (40–60 minutes). There’s also a bus from Kota Kinabalu, but it takes 9–10 hours.
How much is a Sipadan permit and how do I get one?
You can’t buy the permit separately — you only get it through a licensed operator as part of a package. The park entry fee is officially around 140 MYR (£25) a day plus tax, but a full “Sipadan day” with dives works out at roughly 1,200–1,500 MYR (£215–270) through an operator. Only around 176 permits are issued a day, so book 2–3 months ahead.
Do I have to be a certified diver to see Sipadan?
To dive Sipadan, yes — operators usually want at least Advanced Open Water because of the depth and currents. If you don’t dive, you can still reach the area on snorkelling trips to Mabul, Kapalai and the other islands; a “try dive” is possible around Mabul, but not at Sipadan.
Can you just snorkel around Semporna?
Absolutely. Snorkelling island-hopping (Mabul, Kapalai, Sibuan, Mantabuan, plus the Bohey Dulang climb) is some of the loveliest in Asia and starts from roughly 300 MYR (£54) for a full day including boat, lunch and gear. The water is so clear you’ll see turtles and shoals of fish even from the surface.
When is the best time to visit Semporna?
You can dive all year round (water 27–30 °C), but the most pleasant stretch is March to October, with calmer seas; divers report the best visibility roughly July to September. Note: Sipadan is closed for the whole of November 2026.
Is Semporna safe?
According to the Malaysian authorities there hasn’t been a single ransom kidnapping in the area since 2020, and the region is patrolled by the ESSCOM security command with permanent posts on the islands. A night-time maritime curfew applies. Go with a licensed operator and check your foreign office’s current travel advice before you set off.
Where’s the best place to stay — on an island or in town?
Divers usually choose to stay right on Mabul (shorter journeys to the dive sites), or in the comfortable resorts on Kapalai or Mataking. The cheapest option is to sleep in Semporna on the mainland and take day trips to the islands — best for snorkellers and for the night before or after a flight.
Who are the Bajau Laut sea nomads?
The Bajau Laut, nicknamed “sea gypsies”, are indigenous sea nomads living on lepa boats and in stilt huts in the lagoons around Semporna, mainly in Tun Sakaran Marine Park. You’ll meet them on the island-hop. Many are stateless and live in poverty, so approach them with respect and don’t hand out money or sweets to the children.
How many days should I set aside for Semporna?
For relaxed diving including Sipadan, count on 3–5 nights (a longer stay boosts your chances of more Sipadan days). If you’re only going to snorkel, 1–2 days of trips will do — and they slot neatly onto a wider Sabah loop from Kota Kinabalu.
What is there to do in Semporna besides diving and the islands?
In town itself, it’s worth strolling the Semporna Seafront with its seafood restaurants, the morning fish market by the harbour, the waterfront mosque and the Bajau Laut stilt village. Just outside town lies the archaeological Bukit Tengkorak with its prehistoric pottery, sunset from the 2win Hill Park viewpoint, and, in April, the colourful Regatta Lepa festival. With a spare day on the mainland you can visit Tawau Hills Park or the Madai Caves.
Sources
- Sipadan permits and rules (mabul.com): https://www.mabul.com/sipadan-permits/
- Sipadan permits 2026 (sipadan.com): https://www.sipadan.com/Sipadan-Permits.php
- Sipadan Island Guide 2026 (prices, caps, November closure): https://www.tours-malaysia.com/sipadan-island-guide/
- Sipadan diving guide — season and visibility: https://www.southeastasiadiving.com/blog/sipadan-diving-guide-permits-best-season-and-what-to-expect
- Diving budget and prices (dorisgonediving): https://dorisgonediving.com/diving-sipadan-on-a-budget/
- How to get to Mabul / transfers: https://www.pulaumabul.com/how-to-get-to-mabul-island/
- Transport and islands (Scuba Junkie): https://www.scuba-junkie.com/getting-here/
- Eastern Sabah safety / ESSCOM: https://www.amazingborneo.com/travel/is-semporna-safe-for-travel-what-you-need-to-know
- Island hopping and snorkelling from Semporna (prices): https://milas.travel/tour/island-hopping-semporna-adventure/
- Accommodation on Mabul (backpacker): https://thebackpackingfamily.com/mabul-backpackers-review-packages-prices/
- Tun Sakaran Marine Park, Bohey Dulang and Bajau Laut (mabul.com): https://www.mabul.com/tun-sakaran/
- Tun Sakaran Marine Park (Sabah Parks): https://www.sabahparks.org.my/tun-sakaran-marine-park
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